Knowledge Base
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General
(8)
In most cases you can get tracking from the retailer you purchased the product from.
No DK2 does not sell its products directly to the end user. You can purchase a DK2 product from one of our retail partners. We do sell replacement parts for our products at detailk2.com/shop
You can find the retailer of your choice by using the filter option on the detailk2.com/where-to-buy
No you cant pick up an order from any DK2 location
In most cases the product does not come assembled. Assembly is required and resources are available including our assembly videos at detailk2.com/videos
No we do not but you can ask your seller or local mechanic.
Our hours operation are 8:00AM – 4:00 PM EST Monday to Friday
Our products are manufactured in Asia and Canada.
Snow Plows
(10)
Converting any Generation 1 (grey) DK2 snow plow kit over to a custom mounting system is as easy as changing out the winch tower and T-frame (NO 17) for a mainframe and a custom mounting brackets.
The benefits of switching over to a custom mount is adding strength to your snow plow by shortening the frame by nearly 14 inches. We are happy to chat with customers further about changing their generation 1 plow over to a custom mount plow.
List of items needed:
MAIN FRAME
CUSTOM MOUNT BRACKETS
CROSS MEMBER
HANDLE*
*The existing handle can be cut down by the competent DIY&lsquoteer to work with the new frame components.
It is important to check all nuts and bolts and ensure they are tight before you plow. You can put dielectric grease on the grey quick connection to avoid electrical issues.
If you winch pin is bent it means you had the strap going over top of the pin the wrong way. You can call DK2 at 1-888-277-6960 to order a new one.
LB is the light kit for our first generation snow plows (the grey blades) and LB2 is the light kit for our second generation snow plows (the black blades).
This is a very common mistake customers make during assembly. The middle section of the scraper blade is the longest piece and the two short ones go on the ends. If they aren’t lining up try flipping the scraper blade over.
The 35 AMP circuit breaker is necessary to prevent possible electrical damage to either the winch or the vehicle’s electrical system. You connect it to the red wire going from the control box to the battery.
Our snow plows are designed to minimize the wear and tear on your vehicle. The fact that you can remove your snow plow whenever you aren’t plowing dramatically cuts down on the stress a plow can have on your vehicle frame.
The T-frame style snow plows (Hitch-Mounted Series) mount on to any vehicle with a standard 2” class III front mount receiver. The custom mount snow plows (Summit II, Rampage II, Storm II) use a set of vehicle specific mounting brackets joined by a cross member which connects the plow frame to the frame of your vehicle.
First thing you should do is double check you have the proper custom mount for your vehicle. You can check our mount guide under the custom mount section of our website. It is also important to loosely install both left and right mounting brackets first. Then loosely install the cross member between the left and right bracket. Go back and tighten left and right bracket then finally the cross member should be tightened into place.
Yes you can drive on the streets with the snow plow attached to your vehicle. It is always important make sure the safety clips or the hitch pin are secured and your plow is safely mounted to your vehicle. Use the safety chain while you aren’t plowing to take stress off your winch strap.
Power Equipment
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KOHLER® commercial engines have a LOW OIL shutoff protection, it will not start if low on oil.
Use 10w30 and fill it half way up the threads on the filler neck. There are 2 caps for oil fill, they both go to the same place so fill oil from either one.
CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL FIRST
If your equipment has a key shutoff on the chute or the handle, turn the key on.
Check that if you have a EMERGENCY BUTTON it's popped out.
Check if you have a RED BAR chute shut off it's pulled up.
Check your oil level
Move the gas paddle all the way to the right, this is actually a switch on the motor to allow spark to the engine.
Choke half way
Start your engine on turtle
Check that your spark plug wire is seated
Pull start your motor
If you have an Electric start motor then All the above plus
while the motor is cranking with your left hand on the key, move the choke with your right hand slowly to the right until the engine finds its happy place and fires.
Turn the key switch ON and try to start it.
Turn the key switch OFF and try to start it.
NO LUCK
Unplug the white connector on the handle from the key switch
Start the engine
Call us for a key switch replacement.
Connect the battery, red to positive and black to ground
Hold the safety shut off down on the handle
Lift your teeth off the ground, its direct drive.
Start the engine
Unplug the wires from the handle switch and try, if it did not start call us for a handle switch replacement
Easy fix, when you had the nose of your grinder up in the air for extended time the oil from the oil pan has flooded the piston cylinder and your cylinder is full of oil. This creates compression and you cant turn the engine over.
Remove the spark plug
Remove both oil fill caps, this allows air flow
Let it sit for a day over night is best
Replace the oil caps
Give it a shot of starting fluid in the spark plug hole
Replace the spark plug
Now start your engine. 9 times out of 10 you’re in business. It will smoke until all the oil burns off, this process can be timely. You may even see oil from the muffler until it burns off.
For further Engine Assistance, Call 866-GO-KOHLER
Turn the key switch ON and try to start it.
Turn the key switch OFF and try to start it.
NO LUCK
Unplug the white connector from the key switch
Start the engine
Call us for a key switch replacement.
Turn the key switch ON and try to start it.
Turn the key switch OFF and try to start it.
NO LUCK
Unplug the white connector from the key switch
Start the engine
Call us for a key switch replacement.
99% of starting issues are due to sensitive or defective safety switches, not the engine.
Check oil level, halfway up on filler threads. 10W30
Check Gas Level
Make sure spark plus wire is seated on the plug
Make sure slap shut off switch on top of chute is turned and popped out (run position)
Make sure red bar is not pressed onto shutoff switch under chute. (Pull up on the red bar.)
Make sure feed roller cover is closed and safety switch is depressed
Make sure cutter wheel cover is closed and safety switch is depressed
Try to start - half choke, gas on air cleaner to the right, set to turtle, while cranking with key in right hand slide choke to the right slowly until fires.
If no fire, Unplug the connector for the TOP SLAP SWITCH
Try to start - If no fire, unplug the connector to the RED BAR switch
Try to start - Motor should fire
Call DK2 for warranty replace switch or technical help, 888-277-6960
Hydraulic OIL check and setup
Fill black canister with AW32
start engine
allow 5 mins for oil to fill new pump, hoses, valves, hydraulic feed wheel motor.
move the feed roller stick shift level (under feed chute in center) down to the feed position (down is feed, center is off, up is reverse)
Shut engine off
fill canister to about 1 inch from top, tighten sliver cap.
Starting engine with feed roller in off position is recommend in case you have wood in the chute cutting area.
To check your fluid level in the black canister, loosen the nut on top and read the dip stick.
99% of starting issues are due to safety switches open, not the engine.
Check oil level, halfway up on filler threads. 10W30
Check Gas Level
Make sure spark plug wire is seated on the plug
Check the slap shut off switch (if equipped on chute) is turned and popped out.
Check the red bar (if equipped) is not pressed down on the shutoff switch. (Pull up red bar)
Try to start - half choke, gas on air cleaner to the right, set to turtle, while cranking with key in right hand slide choke to the right slowly until fires.
If no fire, Unplug the connector for the SLAP SWITCH (if equipped)
Try to start.
If no fire, unplug the connector to the RED BAR switch (if equipped)
Try to start, motor should fire
If motor will not fire, trace the black conduit tube from the safety switches to the motor, unplug the green and white strip wire.
Start motor, do not operate with safety switches disabled or chutes while open for your safety.
Call DK2 for replacement switch or technical help, 888-277-6960
Winches
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In order to ensure the correct winch selection and correct method of use please take time to read the following information.
Failure to select the correct winch and incorrect operation can potentially reduce the life cycle of your winch and result in premature failure.
Winches used under certain conditions i.e. Salvage, recovery and off road applications will require a much higher rated winch than that of a less frequently used winch used for a rolling load such as a small boat, caravan or car onto a trailer.
Winches mounted on a four wheel drive, or trailer can save a lot off effort. Selection of winch capacity for loading needs to be carefully considered. Winches need to be powerful enough to pull your vehicle whilst overcoming the added resistance caused by obstacles such as moving water, gradients, mud, snow or sand.
MAXIMUM LINE PULL OR RATING
This is the maximum effort that the winch can exert on a single line on the first layer of the winch drum.
As the layers of cable build up on the winch drum, the overall cable speed increases, however the rated line pull decreases at the same rate. By using a snatch block to obtain a "double line pull" you can in effect almost double the pulling capacity of your winch, whilst approximately halving the overall recovery speed.
It is good practice to use a snatch block when performing a "heavy" self recovery as it will decrease the current running through your electric winch motor and helps to prevent overheating and damage to the unit.
HOW TO WORK OUT THE CAPACITY OF WINCH YOU NEED
Ideally the rating of your winch should be in excess of 1.5 times the gross weight of your vehicle. Put simply, a 2 tonne Land Rover should be equipped with a winch with a capacity of 3.5 Tonnes or greater.
Vehicle recovery is a high risk activity. The risk can be reduced with some prior training, planning and preparation, and a disciplined approach to the recovery task.
Become familiar with the owner’s manual. Be sure to read and understand how to use your winch properly. Winches are used for pulling not for lifting. Be sure to choose the right winch for the job.
Winches are normally fitted to vehicles to provide a self-recovery capability, or to provide the capability to recover another vehicle, or to move heavy objects. A winch will be rarely suitable for recovery use without some additional equipment to compliment it. Some of the additional recovery equipment should include a snatch block, some “D” shackles, a short length of 3/8 inch chain, a tree trunk protector and a shovel.
OPERATOR TRAINING
A winch which is not used correctly is a significant safety risk. It is vitally important that the drivers of vehicles which are equipped with a winch are properly trained in its safe operation. Regular training and practice will ensure safer and more competent use during an emergency situation.
GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
The following general safety precautions will reduce the risk:
Operator must be trained to know and understand the use of the winch and how to perform safe winching operations. Sturdy gloves must be worn to protect hands from injury, particularly when handling the wire rope.
Winches should never be submerged in water. If a winch is submerged it must be inspected and serviced by a technician immediately to prevent corrosion damage and to ensure its ongoing safety and reliability;
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR PREPARING A RECOVERY TASK
The following safety precautions must be implemented when preparing a recovery task:
Practice using the winch before you need to use it.
Do not rush. Take the time to plan and prepare carefully.
Estimate the load to be winched.
Use the correct equipment and do not take shortcuts.
Recheck the condition of the wire winch rope and any other equipment being used for serviceability and any obvious damage.
Ensure that the winch controls (remote pendant) are not plugged into the winch while setting up.
Do not exceed the rated safety capacity of the wire rope. Use a double line (2:1) recovery layout if required. If the winch rope must be anchored back onto the winch vehicle when using a 2:1 layout do not attach it to the winch frame as this will double the forces acting on the frame. Attach it to the chassis.
Never use a winch as a hoist. Winches are for pulling not for lifting.
Do not use the winch rope as a tow rope.
Do not use the winch rope to secure cargo on a vehicle.
Do not attach a winch rope to a vehicle’s tow ball, axles or suspension.
Wear leather gloves when handling wire rope. Do not allow the rope to slide through the gloves .
Use the hook strap supplied with the winch to pull the winch rope from the drum.
Endeavor to set up the wire rope so that it is retrieved at a 90 degree angle to the winch drum. (straight pull) This will ensure that it is rewound onto the winch drum evenly and will avoid the damage and delays when over stacking and binding occur.
Do not hook the wire rope back onto itself. Use a choker chain or sling instead.
Remove any obstructions which may interfere with the safe winching operation.
Ensure that any anchors used are strong enough to hold the load .
Place a bag or a blanket over the winch rope to minimize cable whiplash damage if it breaks. In the absence of a bag or a blanket consider using a heavy jacket or leafy branches.
Only allow one person to handle the wire rope and the winch controls (remote pendant).
Establish no go safety zones for assistants and onlookers.
THINK SAFETY.
WARRIOR WINCHES EXTRA’S AS STANDARD
There are many choices of winch available, some cheap, some expensive. A good proportion of winches on the market are generic mass produced winches, not for any specific application but just badged differently by each seller.
There are also some well designed winches on the market, extremely competent and good at what they are intended for, but wildly expensive and relying on a Brand name to justify the price.
Warrior Winches however are well designed, they are extremely competent, they offer the same if not better features than the competition, but not at ‘high dollar’ prices.
In short, Warrior Winches are the most competitively priced PREMIUM Brand available on the market today.
The Warrior brand is now established as one of the biggest selling winch brands in Europe today, we believe we have the largest range of winches available, we carry in stock winches with capacities ranging from 1 tonne to 50 tonne.
An extensive customer base including OEM’s, utility companies, professional recovery operators, RAC and the British Military all agree Warrior winches are the professional’s choice.
WARRIOR WINCHES EXTRA’S AS STANDARD
There are many choices of winch available, some cheap, some expensive. A good proportion of winches on the market are generic mass produced winches, not for any specific application but just badged differently by each seller.
There are also some well designed winches on the market, extremely competent and good at what they are intended for, but wildly expensive and relying on a Brand name to justify the price.
Warrior Winches however are well designed, they are extremely competent, they offer the same if not better features than the competition, but not at ‘high dollar’ prices.
In short, Warrior Winches are the most competitively priced PREMIUM Brand available on the market today.
The Warrior brand is now established as one of the biggest selling winch brands in Europe today, we believe we have the largest range of winches available, we carry in stock winches with capacities ranging from 1 tonne to 50 tonne.
An extensive customer base including OEM’s, utility companies, professional recovery operators, RAC and the British Military all agree Warrior winches are the professional’s choice.
Yes your winch can be used for lifting but you MUST implement a safety factor of 5:1.
Winches are a pulling device and don?t normally be used for lifting application.
If you choose to use your winch for lifting application we strongly recommend terminating the free spool option for your own safety.
Here is a calculation will help you choose the correct winch for your application, all winches are rated on a DEAD WEIGHT line pull and can pull in excess of the rating on rolling loads and wheels.
To calculate your line pull
Line Pull = W*(Gr+CF)
W= Weight
GR= Grade Resistance
CF= Coefficent of friction
For example you want to pull a steel bin on wheels up a 30% cement grade with a total weight of 5 tons, What line pull do i need?
Line pull = 5 tons * (.288+.2-.5) = 2.44 tons - 3.94 tons
All recovery winches whether they are 12v or 24v DC need to be powered by a heavy duty 12v or 24v battery or a series of batteries connected together.
All recovery winches from 8000-20000lbs are supplied with a ESB (Emergency Stop Button) this has to be installed in the positive line for safety cut off.
Negative earth leads are provided and MUST be connected to the main battery negative to create a good circuit, if your black earth cable is too short to reach the battery terminal a extension cable will be required (Can be bought separately).
All Ninja winches come complete with battery leads (Red & Black Long leads) and also the motor leads (Red & black Short leads). On installation of your new winch you first need to connect the black & red motor cables (short leads) to the winch motor from the solenoid box and then connect the positive (Red) and negative (BLACK) cables to the battery terminals.
If you choose to install your recovery winch using a prefabricated mounting plate (Sold separately) there are different models to suit different winches.
The following guide will help
On todays market there are only two types of batteries Leisure and Deep Cycle, both can be used as winching battery but MOST common is Deep Cycle (Starting Battery) with a minimum 650CCA.
Deep Cycle Batteries (Starting battery) are built to directly power electric motors, heating elements, winches, compressors, fridges, information processors and other electrical devices. they are designed to allow repeated full ’dis-charging’ and charging without shortening the lifespan of the battery.
An ordinary lead-acid car battery is kept topped-up all the time by the car alternator and never runs flat. If it does - its life will be foreshortened significantly as it cannot survive being below 90% charge for very long. This is a trade-off in the form of CCA power instead.
Deep Cycle Batteries by contrast are built with heavier charge and discharge cycles in mind and can be used up fully / remain uncharged for longer periods of time with less deterioration and fewer adverse affects on the overall performance.
Generally a 3 figure number the ‘Cold Cranking Amps’ (CCA) are the battery‘s ability to throw plenty of power into the starter motor and engine first thing in the morning or otherwise from ‘cold’.
The ‘cold’ refers to when the engine is started from cold - e.g. the engine has cooled to below a few degrees celsius whilst the vehicle has been parked up.
A cold engine, as opposed to one that has just been running at optimum temperature, will take more energy to start and thus needs plenty of CCA from the battery. The reason for this is that the moving parts of the engine when cold encounter more resistance as they move against one another. Metal (or metal alloy blends), similar to most materials contract and become physically smaller / tighter when cold. The amount of contraction may only be a few thousandths of a millimeter but in a car engine where mechanical tolerances are very fine - it can make, especially in older vehicle designs, a big difference to the job the starter motor has to do.
Diesel engines typically need more CCA for example than petrol equivalents due to them being a much heavier design in general. Diesel engines require certain parts of the engine to be heavier / thicker walled than their petrol siblings and need more CCA to crank them over at startup- especially in winter!
An older car that struggles to start because the engine isn‘t as free turning as a newer version simply needs a battery with 5-10% more CCA than the previous battery! More regular oil servicing will otherwise no doubt help...
PLEASE NOTE :
Your car can take a new battery with the same or more CCA but NOT less!
The charge that a battery holds can be likened to the usable amount of potential energy it has.
Similarly - to charge a battery is to increase that amount of energy to a certain extent so obviously a battery can be full or empty like a cup.
Ordinary Lead Acid batteries such as car batteries need to be regularly charged and kept topped up by the vehicle alternator to keep them working properly. If, for any reason the battery‘s energy levels fall below a certain amount and stay there for prolonged periods of time - it will become unreliable. By contrast a mismatching alternator fitted by a bad mechanic will slowly ruin the battery by overcharging it.
Most types of battery, whilst charging will feel warm to the touch. This is quite normal. If the battery(ies) start to feel too hot to touch then there may be a problem. During charging, lead acid car batteries generate a by product called oxyhydrogen gas. Oxyhydrogen gas in great quantity in an enclosed space can explode when exposed to sparks, lit cigarettes and so on.
When most types of battery have overheated the chemical compounds inside will change due to them having been cooked. Generally the unit will at best be unusable - at worst will melt, deform or explode, often into flames. Smoke or vapors from overheated batteries can also be very toxic. It is generally a good idea to keep the area around charging batteries well ventilated especially older technology.
Do not couple up any type of battery charger to a battery unless you are certain the pair are suited. Some combinations e.g. using grandads old charger on your AGM battery will probably, if not definitely cook it.
The same applies to mobile phones and laptops etc.
Pairing your Wireless Remote Control to your winch is very simple and straight forward. Watch one the videos below which shows the method of pairing the different remote control models to the winch.
Trailers
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This item is shipped from one of our 3 warehouses in a box, on a custom skid, delivered right to your door. Depending on the vendor, it may be shipped to a nearby store as well.
This trailer is fully powder coated steel. Any scratch that occurs on the trailer will cause the trailer to rust without proper protection. We recommend any rust prevention spray paint.
A 2-inch ball is used for the MMT5X7.
12 x 5.3 – bias tires.
The warranty is 1 year from when you purchased the trailer from all manufacturers defects.
Yes, both side panels as well as the front and back gate can be removed.
Yes, you are able to apply larger tires to the trailer. However, you may not be able to use the fenders. Also, be aware of the payload capacity of the trailer and you are not exceeding the recommended weight.
No. The gate that comes with the MMT5X7 is not meant to drive up, it will be damaged if driven on. We recommend using the tilt feature if you are planning on using it to transport an ATV or Lawn Mower. You can also purchase one of our drive up gates.
Yes, all of our trailers are approved for speed limits present on all highways in North America.
Every trailer is equipped with a Certificate of Origin for customers who purchase the trailer in the United States and NVIS for customers who live in Canada. If you are having trouble with registration please email info@detailk2.com with a proof of purchase as well as a picture of the VIN plate on the side of the trailer and one of our team members will be of assistance.
Auto Accessories
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This is simply because the ride at the rear of an RV or Trailer is significantly rougher when compared to the rear of a standard passenger vehicle. The reason for this is that the rear of an RV or travel trailer is typically extended well beyond the rear axle, which results in a see-saw like action when driving down the road that in turn creates a lot of extra movement on the hitch and bicycle carrier.